Friday, May 13, 2005

Aspects of Life as a Jordanian: Narguileh

Have you heard of the narguileh? Perhaps you may know it by its other common names: water-pipe, hookah, shisha or hubble-bubble [1]. If not, maybe you remember the wise, meditative, smoking caterpillar in Lewis Carroll's "Alice's Adventures in Wonderland"? Did you ever wonder what he was doing?! Yep, he was smoking a narguileh.

The narguileh originated centuries ago in India, from where it spread to Iran and, subsequently, throughout the Arab world [2]. In India and Persia they were originally constructed out of a coconut - "nārgil" in Persian, derived from the Sanskrit "nārikera" and the origin of the term narguileh [1].


Two dudes smoking narguileh.
The basic construction of the narguileh is "a smoking device that consists of a bowl mounted on a vessel of water which is provided with a long tube and arranged so that smoke is drawn through the water where it is cooled and up the tube to the mouth" [3]. The design gets scientific in relation to the shape and size of the narguileh. For example, the longer the "neck" leading from the water to the tobacco bowl, the smoother and more mild the taste will be. Prior to the discovery and wide application of the sedative properties of tobacco, the narguileh was used primarily for smoking hashish or opium. But, tobacco rose in popularity around the time that the narguileh was adapted and modified by the Persians (who altered the construction to resemble the modern-day narguileh), which has led it to become the narguileh's main use in modern times [2].

As the narguileh spread throughout the Arab world and was further refined in style and nature, a tobacco based substance commonly called "maassel" - "a 1:2 mixture of tobacco with a sweet substance such as molasses" [1] - rose in popularity. In recent decades, this has grown to include an ever-expanding array of flavors (such as apple, melon, mint, lemon, etc.) as "Egyptian tobacco companies experimented with flavored tobacco as a way to transition people away from cigarette smoking" [1]. Of course it is obvious to any visitor to this region of the world that this was a huge failure, but it made for some fantastic narguileh!

Often thought of as a more traditional habit, reserved for old, bearded men sitting on pillows in remote Bedouin tents, the narguileh has seen a resurgence in popularity throughout the Arab world, including Jordan, as it has become quite popular among young people. As a reaction to the influx of western capitalism and culture in this region, I'd venture to say that this popularity is a yearning from the younger generation to hold on to the remnants of their native culture that is being increasingly coopted by ideas of economic development and global competition. A primal act of passive defiance and autonomy demanding a space for relaxation, contemplation and enjoyment in a fast-paced, faceless world perhaps. Growing numbers of coffee shops and restaurants offer narguileh on their menus - nearly all the sit-down cafes here surrounding the University have it available - and I'd say it is just as common for a young man to have his own narguileh at home as it is for him to have a stereo. They are available for sale everywhere, from tourist shops around Amman to household stores in downtown Mu'tah, and they're cheap. One could buy a narguileh for 5-15JD ($7-20, depending on quality and size) and a box of flavored tobacco is no more than 0.50JD ($0.75).


A caterpillar.
The seductive gurgle-gurgle that the narguileh generates as one is smoking in addition to the aromatic aura of scented smoke that surrounds the smoker makes the narguileh extremely appealing, even to non-smokers. I know a few students here (mostly girls) who can't stand smoking cigarettes but who love to enjoy an occasional narguileh. This is not surprising. It is a relaxing experience that can be enjoyed with the company of a few friends, making the narguileh a very social habit for many. This is at once both good and bad, as it offers an enjoyable atmosphere to spend time with friends, talking and relaxing, but also raises some concerns, especially involving health.

It is common "folklore" that smoking a narguileh is better for your health than smoking cigarettes, because the smoke is drawn through the water. It is said by some that the water would strip out tars and carcinogens, but this is not entirely true. In actuality, the water only cools the smoke, making it possible for a maximum amount of smoke to be inhaled at one time. Alissar Rady, a medical officer at the World Health Organization notes that "[n]arguileh tobacco has the same carcinogens as cigarette tobacco. In fact, smoking one narguileh has the same effect as smoking a pack of cigarettes" [4]. This is especially bad for people that smoke a narguileh every day, or that couple narguileh smoking with cigarettes. I know a few people here, though, that reserve the narguileh for special occasions with close friends, maybe once a month, suggesting that some form of moderation is entirely possible.

As the narguileh experiences a resurgence in popularity, there will most likely be more issues of social awareness and personal welfare that will be raised. But, in a region where smoking cigarettes is already in epidemic proportions, it is hard to believe that the narguileh will lead to a health crisis. As an occasional indulgence in a social setting the narguileh appears to be a viable connection to a deeply historical and traditional Arab lifestyle and culture that is waning in nearly every other social sphere here in Jordan and the Arab world in general. In this respect, I think that the continued future of the narguileh in Jordanian society can have only positive effects.


Selected Sources
1   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hookah
2   http://www.newsfinder.org/comments.php?id=480_0_1_0_M
3   http://www.leilawpb.com/hookahs.htm
4   http://www3.estart.com/arab/lifestyles/nargileh.html

* I've had the opportunity to smoke a narguileh two times since I've been here. The first time, in a cafe here with a friend, I found it to be extremely enjoyable and armoatic. The second time, in someone's house, while nice for a short time, was slightly burnt tasting and somewhat less enjoyable, which I'd attribute to the small size and short "neck". But, it was a great experience. I'd bring one back to the US with some tobacco if I knew that the US Customs officers wouldn't steal it from me... those jerks.