Thursday, May 12, 2005

Everyday Life as a Jordanian

Recently, I haven't been writing much about what my daily life is like, but rather mostly about trips and special events that I've been attending. This is probably because, well, its just like every day life for me.

But, its just been in the past few days that I've realized this. I've really integrated some things into my daily routine that I rarely talk about, which is too bad, because they're cool experiences. Usually like 3 days a week or so I go and hang out at the University with my Jordanian friends. Its really been a fantastic chance to meet Jordanian students my age and experience what their lives are like.

Of course, the events in an average day aren't entirely exciting at first glance. Usually I go to the University in mid-morning and meet with some kids (usually just guys) and we head out to go to one of the cafes right outside the University gates. There, we just sit and hang out, order some coffee or tea and then they try to buy me a juice or some french fries and try to force cigarettes in my mouth. This was all really wierd to me at first, because of just basic cultural differences between Jordanians and Americans. But over time it has become almost routine. Then, if we have the time, we might go play a game or two of "billiardos" (the way Jordanians say it in English) before heading back into the University.

Here at Mu'tah, it seems like most of the students have endless amounts of free/leisure time, which I think is partly because of Jordanian social mores, but also a little bit of the regional culture (the Karak region is pretty unique, even in Jordan). So, it is common to see groups of students just hanging out everywhere, but especially at this giant pedestrian sidewalk at the center of the university, where EVERYONE goes to sit and talk and watch people. You wouldn't be from Karak if you didn't just watch people. And they're good at trying to act like they aren't watching when they really are. For some reason, it is just something that everyone seems to do for lack of other things (like smoking cigarettes). When I'm with guys they make it a good past time to awe over beautiful girls (as far as interactions between boys and girls go, the students at the university here are at about the level of middle schoolers in America), and just to talk about things. They think that I'm hilarious because I'm such a quiet person and I tend to answer questions in short answers.

Then, we might walk around some (another past time) or go get some more coffee or a sandwich. Amazingly, this lasts me all day. Since I don't really have anything else to do or anywhere to be, its okay. At first, I was a little wierded out about it, and I couldn't stay with them for more than a few hours. I guess its the American in me that just thinks that I NEED to do something productive. But, I've done pretty good about spending as much time with the students as I can.

The funnest people to meet and be with are the people who don't speak any English at all. Its a complete challenge to try to communicate, as I stumble through some broken Arabic and they nod their head as if they understand and then rattle off Arabic at the speed of light like I'll understand. And then there's the people that know me, but that I don't remember meeting (not an uncommon thing, I've met SOOOO many people).

Yesterday a guy called me over by name, indicating to me that he had met me. We did the traditional Jordanian greeting between men that know each other, kissing each other on the cheek, once on the left and twice on the right, while shaking hands. We exchanged our "as'alam alykum. kayf haluk. humdil'lilah"s and, in Arabic, he started asking me about where my brother, Reid, was. Reid is a minor celebrity here, because of his fair skin and his long, red hair. Everyone likes him. But, he can't come around that much because he has been kept busy doing his school work. Its really a wierd feeling to have people saying hi to you and you can't remember who they are.

Later in the afternoon, if I don't find an excuse to come home, we might go to someone's house to hang out. It is tradition in Jordan to ALWAYS offer guests something, like a drink. So, its common to have tea (rather, a cup of sugar with some water and a dash of tea) when visiting someone's house. Then, more sitting, as more cigarettes are passed around (its almost to the level of insulting if you refuse something that someone offers you, so I've made it a habit to insult EVERYONE with cigarettes). Maybe, if we aren't watching tv, we'll listen to some music. They LOVE all the worst American music. We might crank up some 50 Cent or Ludacris (becoming popular here), or jam to some Backstreet Boys or Celine Dion (you aren't Jordanian if you don't love this stuff), or maybe even some Michael Jackson. But, chances are, if its American, its not that good. I guess Jordan is getting care packages from Clear Channel or something. Whenever I have the chance, I request to listen to Arabic music.

So that's a little bit of what a typical day here looks like.

We only have 4 more days here. Its pretty rediculous. I'm being forced to start arranging my things to pack, at the behest of my mom. And I'm slowly starting to say goodbyes to people. I've still got lots to do before we leave, and a few more people to see, but things are going well - almost as smoothly as it could, which is good.